Stepping off the plane and into the hot and humid environment of Belém was a shock to the system.  This city of 2 million in the Amazon basin is like rainy Seattle stuck in a sauna and it's going to take awhile for me to get used to the high temperatures.  In Belém there are no seasons per say because it's summer all year round.  The year is divided into the "Rainy" season and the "Less-Rainy" season.  That being said, it downpours every day in Belém, the only question being how much and for how long.

Mango trees at night in the city - photo credit Jean Santos

While driving us to our hotel, our coordinator pointed out the huge and hulking tunnels of mango trees lining the main streets.  Belém is known as the Cidade das Mangueiras/City of Mango Trees and most motorists have an extra insurance for their windsheilds to protect them from the heavy fruits constantly dropping down and busting their windshield.  While eating dinner one night with friends at a street stand under a canvas tarp, a mango fell and all of us about dropped to the floor with fear and surprise from the loud noise it made.  "You have to watch out for those," the vendor said.  "They can give you a small concussion."  He picked it up off the street, peeled some and encouraged us to try it saying, "It's delicous and free!"  And indeed it was.

"And the forecast for Belém tomorrow is rain."  .... "Really?"

Interestingly, the city of Belém has its own natural rhythm.  It rains every day at about 3pm on the dot.  The rain plays an important part of scheduling and making plans.  In the past, residents used to get together depending on the rain and would meet before or after the heavy downpour.  When I ask people about the rain most people here love it.  They like the routine it creates, the like the smell it has and the sound that it makes.  I've had students tell me just in the last week that they would really miss the rain if they lived anywhere else and that they wouldn't be able to live without it.  So far, I could really do without the rain but maybe I'll learn to love it by the time I'm done here.

Seconds before the downpour

When the rain comes, it looks like the end of days is coming and people joke about the afternoon apocalypse.  The skies turn dark and gray and heave, menacing clouds form.  After about five minutes of seeing the sky change, the water comes down in buckets.  It's astonishing to see how thick and hard the rain falls here - I've never seen anything like it.  It makes sense now why so many people told me to make sure I came to Belém with a sturdy and reliable umbrella.  I brought two just in case and I'm glad I did!

And here it comes

After several cancellations, delays and long flights, I finally made it to Brasilia at 2:30am just in time to crash before starting several long and busy days of orientation.  This has been an especially crazy and chaotic year for Fulbright as they started working with Brazil's Ministry of Education on very short notice to start a new program, English Without Borders, which complements a larger program begun last year called Science Without Borders.  This new program, English Without Borders, is why I am able to return with Fulbright a second year.

Government buildings during our city tour in Brasilia

There are a lot of Americans on grants this year in Brazil.  Two weeks ago Fulbright held their orientation for 30 U.S. researchers (there is one of them placed in my host city of Belém), one week ago they held the orientation for the traditional 30 Fulbright ETAs (what I did last year - there are two of them placed in Belém this year and two in the nearby city of Bragança) and just last week was our orientation (there will be 3 of us in Belém). Our orientation consisted of 80 new ETAs and 10 returning ones who will serve as mentors/regional coordinators.  It was a huge group of people to organize and keep track of but it was a lot of fun to meet everyone and hear about where they would be placed.

The whole English Without Borders gang

How did they find 80 new ETAs at the last minute to fill this program?  Turns out it was a good year to apply for a Fulbright in South America last year.  To fill the 80 spots, they asked everyone on the Fulbright alternate list of not only Brazil but also of Argentina, Chile, Ecuador, Colombia, Bolivia and Uruguay if they would consider working in Brazil.  Those that wanted to could re-submit a slightly altered application and be considered for this additional program.  That being said, about half of the ETAs weren't hoping or expecting to be in Brazil, but are overwhelmingly glad to be here and to be a part of English Without Borders.

Famous bridge in Brasilia

Our job is to work with universities to help the science and technology students increase their English competence so that they can not only pass the TOEFL (U.S. English entrance exam for universities) but also be able to successfully communicate, study and research in the language in an English-speaking country.  All of the students that we will work with have been given the chance and the financial support to study abroad in the area of science and technology - the only thing stopping them is their level of English.  We will also be part of a cultural component of the program and will be preparing students to study abroad by talking about customs, cultural differences and regional traditions.  Though all of us are guinea pigs (the mentor program is new along with the English Without Borders program) I'm excited to be a part of a new initiative that has the potential to make some pretty big changes in not only the Brazil but hopefully in the world as well.

But I'm even more excited for Sean to be coming down in a month - can't wait!

Listening to the U.S. Ambassador to Brazil speak

One of the most entertaining weekends of our time at home was a five day trip to Lake Placid.  Back in October, we had been invited to a surprise 30th birthday party for one of Sean's friends, Rick.  Rick's girlfriend Susan had been secretly planning quite an extravagant party for him near where he works as border patrol in New York.  With the help of Rick's very generous parents, Susan rented a chalet and organized all of the details for about fifteen of Rick's friends to spend a long weekend of fun winter activities and celebrating.

 
Though I was a little wary of spending five days with Sean's friends (they can be more than a little crazy at times) I ended up having a lot of fun and it will be a trip that's hard to beat.  We drove to Lake Placid in a caravan of cars which was an adventure in and of itself.  The chalet was the kind you only read about or see on girly movies; it had that rustic charm complete with a hot tub with a mountain view.  Susan's ability to party plan was unparalleled and she had matching shirts and personalized steins filled with goodies essential for the weekend (hand warmers, chapstick, candy, airplane shots . . . etc.)  Rick's parents went over and above as well and cooked us almost all of our meals as well as fancy snacks and drinks in between. 



Lake Placid was a beautiful area that I had never explored before.  The ski town itself was picturesque and touristy and offered many things to do.  Our first day we all napped and then had mimosas in the hot tub.  In the evening we went to dinner and waited to surprise Rick, the birthday boy, who had suspected something was up but had no idea just how big the plans were.  The next day we went ice skating and dog-sledding and played lots of games at night.  The following day we went skiing at the big resort on the biggest ski mountain I have ever tried to tackle in my life.  After sliding down on my butt on the blue runs I quickly realized I could only safely and sanely handle the green runs and spent many happy hours on "Bear," "Fox," and "Rabbit."



The last day we went on a "Wolf Walk" which was my favorite part of the whole trip (besides the hot tub, naturally).  During the wolf walk, the tour guide walked alongside an actual wolf while explaining to us some canine history mixed in with various political rants now and again.  The coolest part came when the wolf started howling all on his own.  The chance to see a wolf howl up close was pretty cool.  Later on that day we added one more winter sport to the list and spent the afternoon tubing.  Surprisingly, considering the crew we had, there were no major injuries to ourselves or other guests on the hill.

The next day we made the long drive back home in cars filled with stiff joints, sore muscles, sleep-deprived and slightly hung-over bodies and lots of memories.  Thanks Marijo, Steve and Susan! It was a fantastic trip and one that will never be forgotten. 

Between winter storms that covered the world in ice, epic snowfalls, incredible lake landscapes and amazing sunrises and sunsets, these past two months at home were a glimpse and a reminder of how beautiful Michigan is (and also how very cold) no matter what the season.  It was a huge physical shock to return to such cold temperatures, dry air and lack of sunshine but the picturesque views more than made up for it.  The following pictures were taken by my sister and friends while they were out and about around Holland.  I think they are so good that they could be part of a Pure Michigan ad campaign!

Sunset on the Big Lake (Brad Bishop)

Big Red at sunset (Brad Bishop)

The lake frozen over (Brad Bishop)

Sunrise on the way to work (City of Holland)

Snow and ice on the lake (Jason Keher)

A glimpse of perfection on the windshield (Susie Sanderson)

I haven't really minded spending most of the last two days in airports as it's given me a chance to think about and recap my winter break at home.  Some of the highlights of family time this year were: Grandma Hendriksma's 90th birthday party and huge family reunion, Sanderson and Doyle family Christmas traditions, going to Chicago with Mom and Dad to get my visa, Mom's Thanksgiving dinner in February, cooking a Brazilian feast, going through Sean's childhood memories in the Doyle basement and being able to spend a lot of time with my sister, Susie. The only families I really wanted to see but didn't get to were the Sandersons in Florida and my Ohio family, the Hawkins - I hope we can make it happen next year!

Going through Sean's childhood memories

Spending time with Susie and friends at the brewery

The Hendriksma family

Grandpa and Grandma looking foxy

Cashed out and cold on our first full day back

Sitting down to the dessert portion of the Brazilian feast

Getting together with cousins from Colorado

Dad showing the snow level

Mom giving some scale to how much snow we've had

I'm in the airport in Atlanta waiting to board the flight to Brazil and I'm feeling excited to start a new year but also sad to leave Holland.  The past two months flew by and Sean and I had an absolutely fantastic time with family and friends and I'm more than a little envious that Sean gets one more month at home. 

If I had a dollar for every time somebody asked me "How long will you keep this up?" or "When are you planning on settling down?" I might have been able to make a dent in the crazy amount of money in fare increases and flight change fees that the cancellations and delays that the snowstorms down south caused.  The truth is I'm not sure how much longer Sean and I will be able to continue this lifestlye but I know that for now it feels right and that it's working for us.

But two months in Holland (my favorite place on earth, even in winter) tugs at my wanderlust a little more each year.  This year, it wasn't the houses, cars, kids or cool stuff that our friends and family had accumulated while we were away, but the sense of community and care that comes with long-standing relationships and friendships that can be traced to way back when. 

This year, particularly, Sean and I were blown away by the generosity, the thoughtfulness and the welcoming warmth of our friends and family.  Even though we are always gone for the majority of the year, they received us as if we had never been gone at all.  Friends had us over for dinner, helped get us jobs, let us borrow cars, treated us to dinners and drinks, fixed our car and invited us to hang out all the time.  It was pretty amazing and not only makes it very hard to leave Holland but also reminded me what's so valuable about putting down roots - the community that loves on you and grows with you. 

When I arrive in Brazil tomorrow I'll be attempting to construct an entirely new community - from scratch.  If it's anything like last year the process will be challenging, frustrating and a little lonely at times but it will also be a lot of fun and an impossible-to-pass-up adventure. 

There is a rather large group of new English teachers seated next to me who are headed to the same orientation that I'm going to help out with in Brasilia.  Their excitement is contagious as they talk about what side projects they want to do, where their placement is, how much Portuguese they know and where they've studied abroad before.  Most of them had coordinated together beforehand to make Valentine's Day cards for all passengers on the flight (that's 108 total people) that we're about to take.  I'm going to take that as a positive indication on how this next year's going to go.  Even though my real heart will always be in Holland, this paper cut-out one will have to do for now.  Happy Valentine's Day!