Although I'm very grateful to have a second opportunity to be an English Language Fellow (ELF) in Uganda, the time between the two contracts was very limited which made the vacation I was able to spend at home much shorter than I would have liked. Because of this, I packed in as much as I could and saw as many family and friends as possible which made the break in Holland fun but certainly not relaxing.

During the first week, I enjoyed a lovely sail with Mindy and an evening with Emily as well as a visit to Coppercraft distillery with Susie, Al and Marcus. On Friday, I spent the day with Al and we had fun exploring the Tanger Outlets and going out for lunch before we met up with Susie, Marcus and the rest of their gang to hit up Food Truck Friday and then Movies in the Park in Grand Rapids. Susie and I had planned a sister's weekend and spent Saturday at the Farmer's Market, Art in the Park, lunch at Big Lake Brewing and the afternoon at the beach topped off by an obligatory visit to Captain Sundae.



The first week at home flew by and before I knew it I was boarding a plane for Washington D.C. for a week of English Language Fellowship training and professional development. As a "Renewing Fellow", I had a lot more responsibilities than last year including a presentation on using social media as an outreach tool for the big group and several smaller presentations about challenges and successes of my first year during the Africa ELF breakout sessions. The best part about being in DC was seeing all of my ELF friends that I had made during my first year but hadn't seen since the mid-year seminar. It was also nice to see the faces of the program administrators with whom I communicate via email constantly but have never met in person.




From D.C. I flew back to Grand Rapids where I met Sean who had just flown in from Oregon where he finished his summer as a Trip Leader for Adventure Treks. We drove to a hotel in Grand Rapids to celebrate our 7th anniversary and catch each other up on the adventures of the past three months. Staying downtown GR was a blast and we enjoyed walking to check out Brewery Vivant and Founders Brewing Company throughout the weekend.



After we returned to Holland, the focus was on family and we both had several events lined up. The first was Sean's dad's retirement dinner at Marigold Lodge which was made especially enjoyable by the fact that everyone was in town to celebrate, including Jen (teaches in Saudi Arabia), Kate (works in Hawaii) and Jess (studies in Florida). Other family highlights included a picnic with my birth family, a family breakfast and hang-out day with my cousins Craig and Dave and pizza at the beach with Mom, Dad, Susie, Marcus and Sean.



The other thing that kept me busy was preparing our newly purchased house for renters. Back in May, Sean, Jen (Sean's sister) and I pooled our funds and bought a small house on the south side of Holland. Since we all teach abroad, the plan was to live in it during the summers and rent it out during the year. The amount of paperwork that was required to purchase a house and then obtain all of the proper documentation to rent it legally was extremely time-consuming and a steep learning curve. I hope our new renters enjoy it as much as we have!



This week I've returned to Uganda and am working on getting settled in a new university and in a new apartment. Sean arrives this weekend and will stay until the end of September until he moves to Antarctica for a seasonal job, but more on that later. Thanks for reading and following along!

The blog has taken a backseat to life as an English Language Fellow (ELF) so let me share some updates on how this summer is going while I have a decent internet connection.



Sarah

I am finishing up the last two months of my English Language Fellowship in Mbarara, Uganda. Classes ended in May and I finished giving and grading final exams right before taking off to Michigan to attend two weddings of good friends (Congratulations Jenna and Brian and Arun and Connie!). Also, Sean, his sister and I pooled our money to buy a small house, which has been an exciting new venture. After a quick trip home, I returned to Uganda and have been working on some projects now that things at the university are pretty quiet. One big project was a weekend teacher training workshop with the Ugandan National English Language Teaching Association (UNELTA) which took place last weekend. We're working together on equipping English clubs with entrepreneurial and business skills so students can make a little money, learn how to run a small business and practice English in an authentic way. Another big project was working with Rotary International and the American Refugee Committee to put together some events at Nakivale Refugee Camp for International World Refugee Day. The next big event is in Tanzania which is a collaboration with several other ELFs. We are hosting a two day conference followed by a five-day training for 50 English teachers coming from all over East Africa. After that, I only have a couple of weeks before I fly back to the U.S. on July 29 - can't wait! Besides training in D.C. from August 6-11, I'll have some time at home before returning to Uganda on August 24 for a second year of ELFing.




Sean

Sean left Uganda in early May to get ready for his first summer of being a Trip Leader with Adventure Treks. He will be leading trips in the Pacific Northwest July and August and will return to Holland roughly the same time I get back from D.C. I'm following along with his summer trips on the Adventure Treks blog, which has been a lot of fun. Sean has his annual Labor Day trip with friends along with an additional backpacking trip to Isle Royal before, which he has been looking forward to.

I'm looking forward to some time in Holland to see Sean, friends and family and soak up some Michigan paradise before heading back to Africa at the end of August. I wish it were longer than two weeks, but I'm grateful for the break before starting a new contract at a new university and in a new city. Fingers crossed that I'll have better internet to update this blog in Entebbe compared with access and connectivity in Mbarara. Thanks for reading and enjoy your summer!

 Before starting my fellowship, I assumed that I would talk about things like teaching methodology or upcoming conferences with my colleagues, but this has not been the case at all. My Ugandan office mates including the department dean, secretaries, lecturers and graduate teaching assistants want to talk about sex, marriage, and power dynamics in our relationships. It all started innocently enough with pizza dough. This year, since I'm working full-time, Sean manages the house and does all of the cooking, grocery shopping, cleaning and laundry - activities which are extremely time-consuming where we live. One of his favorite dinners to make is homemade pizza and because I usually take leftovers for lunch and since there aren't any pizza places in town, my colleagues were immediately intrigued. "Where did you get that pizza?" they asked. "Did you make it?" When I said that Sean had made it the night before they were shocked, and their surprise led us to talk about who does what in our relationships and why that is. My (mostly female) group of colleagues are educated professionals the same age as me who also have at least three children and manage the house in addition to working full-time. All of them are married and about half of their husbands work. Where we live in Uganda, it is not common for men to work inside the home or care for children but as unemployment rises for men and more educated women join the workforce, juggling domestic duties and childcare with a career has become exhausting, frustrating and unsustainable for many wives. Sean is frequently in the office bringing lunch so we can eat together, collaborating with me on the next workshop and stopping by on his way back from the grocery store, loaded down with bags. Over the past few months, he's gotten to know the women in my office and it has been so cool to see their friendships develop. Sean is an anomaly here - he's a man that cooks, cleans and washes and is not afraid to talk about it. "Come on over," he says to my officemates. "I'll show you how to make pizza dough."

There are so many incredible national parks in Uganda that in ten months we'll probably only make it to half of them. After hiking to see the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Forest, the next park on our list was Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP), which is famous for its tree-climbing lions. QENP is only a few hours from our house and after hearing that a few other teachers wanted to explore it as well, we hired a car and spent the weekend there.



Since it can be a bit expensive to stay inside the park, we opted to stay at nearby Kingfisher Lodge which offered a beautiful pool and rooms overlooking the savannah. We arrived on Friday afternoon and immediately took off for a sunset safari. On the way to the park entrance we were greeted by many families of curious monkeys looking for a handout. The evening safari was fun because the air was cool, the scenery was gorgeous and the animals were active. We saw elephants, a variety of antelope, water buffalo and too many interesting birds to count. We were also very lucky to spot two tree-climbing lions napping in the branches on our way out. We only covered a bit of the 760 square miles that the park has to offer before the sun went down and we headed back to the lodge.



Queen Elizabeth National Park is known for being one of the better parks in Uganda to see a large variety of wildlife including African buffalo, Ugandan kob, hippos, crocodiles, warthogs, elephants, leopards and chimpanzees. However, it is most famous for being the home of tree-climbing lions, whose males have black manes. Part of the reason for the abundance of wildlife is the access to water - the park extends from Lake George in the north-east to Lake Edward in the south-west and includes the Kazinga Channel connecting the two lakes. It was originally called Kazinga National Park but was renamed two years later to commemorate a visit by Queen Elizabeth II.



On our second day, we had a morning safari and then stopped for lunch at one of the more expensive lodges inside the park. For me, the highlight of the day was hanging out with the piles of sleeping mongooses which could be found napping under the trees on the grounds of the park - they were super cute! We spent the afternoon on a three-hour boat ride that took us the length of the channel and back and allowed us to get up close to hippos, crocodiles, elephants, buffalo, lizards and birds. Without a doubt, it was some of the best wildlife viewing I've ever had the opportunity to witness as being in a boat was much quieter and less obtrusive then rumbling around on dirt roads in a safari jeep.



That evening we had a long ride back to our lodge and went to bed early in anticipation of an early start and the drive back to Mbarara. After having spent the weekend at QENP, I can now understand why it's one of the more popular national parks to visit in Uganda and I highly recommend if you ever get the chance.

The blog has taken a backseat to life as an English Language Fellow (ELF) for several reasons. First, the internet connection in rural Uganda is weak and expensive. When I am lucky enough to have a decent signal, I prioritize work-related activities and communication over anything else. Even purchasing internet data in bulk is pricey - last week I reloaded with 10G for about $60 (a fortune here), which I'll hopefully try to make last for at least a couple of weeks. Secondly, even if there is a decent internet signal there is often no electricity. Much of the time I'm not able to charge my phone or computer to access internet in the first place. Sean and I have adjusted to these challenges by limiting our time online, charging everything whenever there is electricity available and keeping a headlamp and a backup battery for emergencies with us at all times.

Other than getting used to a life offline and in the dark, life as an English Language Fellow in Uganda has been fantastic and the past few months have been very fun and busy. In November, Sean and I traveled to Malindi, Kenya so I could participate and present at an English Access Microscholarship Training for a few days. In January, we spent a week in Kigali, Rwanda helping out with an English Teacher Association Networking conference put on by the U.S. Embassy and the British Council. The next month we headed to Zanzibar in Tanzania for the ELF midyear seminar which was a fantastic opportunity to meet and get to know the other ELFs in Africa. This month, we recently returned from a friend's destination wedding in Mexico and we enjoyed celebrating with family and friends in Puerto Vallarta. Next month, we travel to Ethiopia to present at a TESOL conference in Addis Ababa and in May we return home for a week to attend two weddings in Michigan. It's hard to believe that at the end of July I'll be flying home at the completion of my fellowship and we're eager to see what's next.

In the meantime, I'll be updating the blog as best as I can with the available internet and electricity. As always, thanks for following along!

Nothing like a power outage to remind us that even forced candlelight dinners can be romantic.

Blog posts have been a little delayed because of the loss of my laptop. Unfortunately, while we were away on a weekend trip a few weeks ago, someone broke into our apartment and took my computer and hard drive. I'm still grieving a bit but also trying to move forward, stay positive and not let the frustration and fear of the theft drag me down.

This past weekend was one of the highlights of the fellowship so far as my husband and I were invited to attend a traditional Ugandan wedding. Last semester, Sean and I co-taught a communications skills course with Cleophas, a very friendly and outgoing Ugandan professor. As soon as I met her, she immediately invited me to attend the wedding of her niece. In Uganda, it is quite common for large numbers of people to be invited to extended family weddings. Sean and I were excited about the opportunity and started planning where to stay and what to wear.

Ugandan weddings are long and complex affairs. They usually involve at least two ceremonies on separate days - one is the 'Giving Away' celebration during which the bride's family formally hands her over to the groom's family and the other is the actual wedding ceremony. Although Sean and I were invited to both events, we opted to attend just the Giving Away ceremony because of available time and expense.


Both ceremonies were held on the same weekend in Kampala which is unusual for two reasons. Usually, the two events are spread weeks or months apart and are held in the village, not in a big city like Kampala. Although our invitations said the event started at one in the afternoon, staff at our hostel advised us to arrive much later. When we got to the venue at 2:30 pm, hardly any of the other guests had arrived yet and we ended up waiting around until about 4:30 pm when the party really got started.

The location of the ceremony was beautiful and elaborate. There was an elevated center stage for the bride surrounded by chairs to be filled by her bridal party. Guests were seated under tents in a circular arrangement around the stage. The middle area was used by the MC and by the dance troupe who performed no less than eight entertaining numbers at various points in the service. The day began with drinks and lunch. Instead of being served at our tables, the ushers directed us to a separate area of the park where we stood in the buffet line and then took our heavy plates to dining tents. After everyone had eaten, the event began with processionals of the families, the bridal party and the groomsmen. Several people from each group gave speeches to the bride and to the families.

After everyone was in place, both families presented gifts to each other and gave more speeches. The service was tri-lingual and three MCs spoke in either English, Lugandan or Runyankole which made each part of the ceremony last for quite some time. After the presentation of gifts and lots of picture taking, there was cutting of the cake and final speeches and Bible verses by the bride's family. Throughout all of this, guests were supplied with drinks and later on with tea and cake. Toward the end of the evening, plates of grilled beef and goat meat were passed around along with chapati (thick tortillas) and the snacks disappeared quickly.

The official ceremony ended around 10 pm and we headed home at that point but were informed that the the informal party would continue much later into the night. My favorite part of the day was the fact that not a single person walked down the aisle - everyone danced. This seemed like a particularly appropriate model to live by, especially here in Uganda. Why walk when you can dance? It was a privilege and delight to be able to attend a traditional Ugandan wedding and I hope we're able to go to another one before my fellowship comes to an end.