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U.S. Foreign Service Officer headed to Wuhan, China

The mission of a U.S. diplomat in the Foreign Service is to promote peace, support prosperity, and protect American citizens while advancing the interests of the U.S. abroad. The work that diplomats do has an impact on the world as they serve at one of any of the more than 270 embassies, consulates and other diplomatic missions in The Americas, Africa, Europe and Eurasia, East Asia and Pacific, Middle East and North Africa, and South Asia.

The duties of a Consular Officer include to provide emergency and non-emergency services to American citizens and protect our borders through the proper adjudication of visas to foreign nationals and passports to American citizens. We adjudicate immigrant and non-immigrant visas, facilitate adoptions, help evacuate Americans, combat fraud, and fight human trafficking. Consular Officers touch people’s lives in important ways, often reassuring families in crisis. They face many situations which require quick thinking under stress and develop and use a wide range of skills, from managing resources and conducting public outreach to assisting Americans in distress.

English Teaching Assistantship video

During the past semester, our coordinators collected quotes, pictures and videos from our students about how our presence at their universities has contributed to their language learning.  The Fulbright commission put everything together in a video that means quite a lot to me.  Take a look:


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Houseguests

Praia da Concha at dusk

My apartment is about to get a whole lot emptier as Kate and Patrick, two fellow ETAs, are leaving and heading back to where they work in Maceió and Belem, respectively.  I have had such a fun time showing them around Ilhéus and just hanging out in general.  We have been quite busy and are all pretty tired after a week of late nights and some early mornings.

My neighborhood as seen from my balcony with Patrick's fancy camera

American breakfast

After helping with Idea Factory, we all went out for dinner and drinks and then headed to a club right on the water near my house called "Mar Aberto" (Open Sea).  On Wednesday nights the club provides a live Forró band and the atmosphere is awesome.  Sean, don't worry, I've already found an instructor who's willing to give us Forró lessons as a couple so we can get up to speed.

Group teeth brush in the morning


On Thursday, Patrick and Kate spent the day at the beach while I went to work at UESC and then we met for dinner, drinks and live music at the popular local hangout downtown, Barrakitika.  Marina, a Brazilian friend from Itabuna, joined us as well which made four people staying in the apartment for the weekend.  On Friday we spent the day at the beach and enjoyed paddle ball, dominoes and soccer on the shore.

Day at the beach with our new friend, Gabriel from Uruguay



Friday night included a concert by Oquadro and lots of hanging out afterward talking to other concert goers who had traveled far to see the band.  On Saturday we took it pretty easy and went out to lunch for some local food, shrimp moqueca, and stayed in to watch the Brazilian movie "Bruna Surfistina."  Yesterday we hit up the beach one last time and invited some newly made friends over for dinner that evening.  After grocery shopping and milkshakes, Patrick whipped up a Mexican dish and our dinner guests brought the ingredients for caipirinhas.

They are as crazy as they look


Today, it's back to reality and everyone is leaving.  I'm going to miss sleeping like sardines in my bed with Marina and Kate, making meals for people and trying the cooking of others, laughing in the wee hours, lots of acoustic guitar playing, group teeth brushing and deep conversations on the balcony.  Please come back and visit again!



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Idea Factory


The first real week back of second semester was a rough one in that it was very very busy.  Loni and I returned from our seminar in Brasilia and jumped right into a week full of our new classes and also one of the biggest English events of the year: the Idea Factory.



The Idea Factory is our coordinator's brainchild and baby.  It's also a lot of work and a logistical nightmare since it's only in its second year of existence.  Isaias created the event as a forum for English teachers to share ideas about improving teaching methods in Brazil.  We had been planning for this event for months and I was excited for it to happen but also ready for it to be over.



Loni and I had also invited another Fulbrighter to participate.  Patrick, from Fort Collins, CO who is teaching in the north of Brazil, arrived last Monday to give one of the main speeches of the day. We were also visited by Kate, from Florida who is teaching in Maceió.  The two stayed at my house and it has been really fun hanging out with them.



The main thing that I was nervous about with the Idea Factory was being in front of everyone as Loni and I were the official MCs for the entire day.  That meant that I was on the microphone from when the event started at 8:30 until when it finished at 6:30.  Dealing with rushed presenters, frustrated sponsors and a harried coordinator who was running around like crazy made it a bit of a stressful day.  The only thing that gave me confidence was the fact that Loni and I were the only native English speakers in the room and that people wouldn't really notice if I said something wrong.

Overall, the event went fine and everyone agreed that it went better than last year.  I wasn't expecting this year in Brazil to require so much public speaking but I think I have been up in front of large audiences more in these last few months than I have in my entire life.


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Last day in Itacaré


After returning from the hike, Sue and I headed to a hostel next door Gomes and Alex’s apartment.  They had insisted on us staying with them and were completely flabbergasted when I tried to explain why we would feel more comfortable in a guesthouse.  To prove their point further, they walked into the communal hostel bunkhouse the next morning while Sue and I were still in bed and invited us over for breakfast.  


We had planned on leaving for Ilhéus that morning but were cajoled into staying the day and hiking to a beach that is tricky to get to without a guide.  It was one of those perfect beach days so we decided to stay for another day.  Like I had said before to Sue, it can be extremely difficult to say goodbye to Brazilians simply because they refuse to let you leave.  On the way to the beach we stopped at a viewpoint to check out the sea turtles and enjoyed the rest of a beautiful afternoon on the sand and in the water. 



After hiking back, we stopped in town for “self-service” food (you pay by how many kilos you eat) and once again Gomes and Alex tried to convince us to stay longer.  Since Sue was leaving the next day, we decided that this wasn’t very wise and caught the last bus to Ilhéus. 


The next morning, we hopped on another bus headed to Itabuna to have lunch with my coordinator and his family.  They made a traditional Brazilian lunch with salad, beans, rice, chicken and fruit and were kind enough to drive us all back to the airport with a stop to pick up Sue’s luggage.  


The trip with my sister was laid back and relaxing and definitely one that was off the traditional tourist trail.  I think she got a chance to know the real Brazil with plenty of time and opportunity to meet Brazilians and to experience firsthand their hospitality, warmth and generosity. 
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Coastal hiking trip

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One of our hosts, Alex, making us a moqueca dinner
Our other host, Gomes

After the long ten-hour bus ride back to Ilhéus, I had one day to rest and get organized before my sister arrived.  I had posted a little bit about or time together - exploring Ilhéus, going to the beach, stand up paddle boarding and traveling to the nearby city of Itacaré, but I wanted to write a little more about the most adventurous part of her trip to Brazil - a three day hiking and camping trip on the coast from Barra Grande to Itacaré.

On the ferry getting ready for the hike

I've mentioned previously that Brazilians, at least in Bahia, tend to be very friendly, curious, outgoing and extremely welcoming and helpful.  The natives in Itacaré were no exception to this and raised the bar even higher in my opinion.  The little beach town has a nightly tradition of meeting together on a certain peninsula at sunset.  Tourists and locals alike join together to watch the sun go down and make plans for that evening and the following day.  After the sun goes down the point of the peninsula becomes a hive buzzing with networking activity.  Guides try to convince tourists to join their trips the next day, tourists share and compare their experiences and locals check out the newcomers in search of new dance partners for the night.  In some ways it feels like a giant meat market with the added ambiance of a sunset.

Hiking down the beach

Setting up camp
Sue and I took part in this little ritual and met a lot of really cool people.  The next day while we were walking to the beach one of the guys we had met shouted out at us from his window and invited us in for a “cafezinho.”  We chatted with him and his roommate for a little while and they told lots of stories of their past camping trips.  Both Alex and Gomes work as guides in Itacaré taking tourists to hidden beaches, camping along the coast and teaching surfing classes.  A rough life, for sure.


Hanging in the tent with Sue on the rainy day

In the same position hours later after torrential rains



The next thing we knew, Sue and I were packing for a three day hiking and camping trip on the beach from Barra Grande back down to Itacaré.  We had to take a bus and a boat to get to our starting point and on the way we picked up an Italian solo backpacker who was keen to join in on the trip.  The trip was a lot of fun with the only negative being heavy rains on the second day.  Sue and I stayed in the tent and napped, reminisced about old times and laughed . . . a lot.  Fortunately, Alex and Gomes knew everyone in the area and we were able to camp on someone’s porch the second night as the tents and ground were soaked.  One of the highlights about the trip for me was being able to try some of the typical Bahian food like bananas, coconut and cous cous and lots of fresh fruit and coconut milk.


Hiking along the beach was cool (we even lucked out and saw some dolphins), but my favorite thing was the ride on a friend’s four wheeler part of the way.  It was a bit of a balancing act and at times I was afraid that my sister was going to fly off.   One of funniest things for me was Gomes’ dedication to his surfboard.  He hiked with it under his arm the entire way and only surfed for about an hour and a half one afternoon.  He still concluded, without a doubt, that it was worth it and looked at me as if I were crazy to even ask the question.  I think it’s safe to say that I won’t be turning surfer-chick-hippie anytime soon.

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Last day at the ETA conference

 
Though I remember feeling very intimidated and overwhelmed by the other ETAs when I first met them, this time around it felt like a giant family reunion.  My favorite parts of the seminar were when we simply were able to talk and hang out.  On Wednesday night we were all invited to attend a book signing complete with speeches, wine and canapés.  Our coordinators had been flown in to spend part of the week in meetings as well and thus our boss, Isaias, was able to attend.  Though plenty formal, the evening was a welcome relief and opportunity to chat with everyone and meet their coordinators.  The organizers were generous with the hors d'oeuvres, the wine was flowing and I think 10:30 and loading back onto the bus came all too early for everyone.
 
Loni and I with our coordinator, Isaias
On Thursday, the final day of the seminar, we finished up our presentations (see below), took part in a culture shock and reflection activity and made a video full of advice for next year’s ETAs to Brazil.  After another saliva-inducing trip to the food court some headed out to a samba club and the rest of us hung out in groups in various rooms in the hotel.  It was therapeutic and hilarious to listen to the unstructured and uncensored experiences of my fellow ETAs and after a few hours we were all laughing so hard that we had to be shushed by the hotel security.  For most of us, this would be the last time we would see each other and it was hard to say goodbye.  I’m hoping that some of the group is able to visit us in Ilhéus and would love to meet up with them back in the States as well.  


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Brasilia

Super chic part of the city called Pontão - a waterfront hangout
I think the mid-year seminar is held in Brasilia for a couple of reasons 1) It's the capital and seat of government of Brazil with a large part of the city being devoted to embassies and consulates 2) It's not usually on the list of places to visit in Brazil; had it not been for this seminar, I probably wouldn't have made it here.

President Dilmah's house - no fence or anything, just a moat

Brasilia is odd.  It feels like I am worlds away from Bahia and in a concrete, futuristic and eerily clean city in the middle of a dessert.  For some, Brasilia is a miracle and model of construction - it was built in only three years and officially made the capital in 1960.  Here, everything is super organized, meticulously planned and beautifully manicured.  Everything is arranged on a logical grid with names that appear like code to the unitiated: SDN/SDS, SBN/SBS, SMHN/SMHS . . . there's a lot of S's.  The government buearcrats herald the airplane-shaped city as a modern utopia and like to remind you that it's the only city in the world constructed in the 20th century to achieve World Cultural Heritage designation by Unesco.





For the rest of us,  Brasilia feels a bit contrived, soulless and lacking any real identity of its own.  When I told my students that I was going to Brasilia for a week the answer was usually, "Why?"  It's also not for those on a budget as there aren't really any hostels or guesthouses in town.  Food and drinks are ridiculously expensive and it's very hard to get around without your own car.  It's definitely a city for the affluent and not for the penniless backpacker.

Protestors on the lawn in front of congress - notice all the matching perfectly lined buildings on the side


Congress - under each dish is a different chamber
The main reason why tourists visit Brasilia is to check out the architecture.  Today, after a morning session about how to improve our second semester here and go out with a bang, we took a city tour.  The layout and architecture of the city of Brasilia was done entirely by urban planner Lúcio Costa and famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer.  His buildings are unusual because they started to use curves in concrete.  Our tour guide called it "tropical modern architecture" and said that the design of the buildings helped keep them cool as well.

Cathedral of Brasila

Inside the cathedral
For me, the coolest buildings were by far the churches by Neimeyer and the two that we visited were each jaw-dropping in their own way.  The first one, the Cathedral of Brasilia, is half above the ground and half underground.  When standing underground the curve of the wall has amazing acoustics so that when you whisper along the wall someone can hear you all the way across the room.  The second church, the Sanctuary of Dom Bosco, had incredible stained glass windows that bathed everything in a calming blueish-purplish light.  Though spending the afternoon studying Brasilia’s architecture was fun and interesting, for much of the group the highlight of the day was an evening excursion to a giant food court in the mall.  After months of American/International culinary isolation and kilos of beans and rice, the rows upon rows of incredible gustatory choices were quite the feast to behold.

Dom Bosco Sanctuary
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    Sarah Sanderson
    I am currently in Mandarin language training as a new diplomat in the U.S. Foreign Service. Sean and I depart for Wuhan, China in November 2019 for my first tour in consular affairs.
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    Grateful for my very tolerant, supportive and easygoing husband who's always game for a new adventure

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